Making the Johnny Ringo Rig from the movie, "Tombstone". Pattern and instructions from Will Ghormley. Making the Johnny Ringo Rig from the movie "Tombstone"
Making the Johnny Ringo Rig from the movie "Tombstone"
This isn't intended to be a comprehensive article on making holsters and belts, just highlighting the specifics that may be helpful when constructing a reproduction of the Johnny Ringo Rig.
The Johnny Ringo Rig pattern is $40.00

The pattern pack includes the complete pattern to make Ringo's gun belt, and 8 different holster patterns to fit over 30 of the most popular Western Action Shooting pistols.

The three concho set to complete the rig as shown, is $20.

Individual conchos can be purchased for $10 each.

One pattern and several sets of conchos can be shipped and insured for $8

To order the Johnny Ringo Rig Pattern, send a check or money order, along with a listing of your complete order, your contact information, and your shipping address, to:

Will Ghormley
P.O. Box 152
Chariton, Iowa  50049
If you have any questions, email me at Will Ghormley
or phone 515-979-7725.
Johnny Ringo Rig Pattern now Available.
The following instructions and photographs are not intended to be complete instructions on how to make a holster and belt rig.  Rather, these are specific instructions that may assist in constructing this specific Johnny Ringo Rig, from the movie, "Tombstone".  While I did not make the original for the movie, I have re-created the most accurate replicas available anywhere, (that is, until you get your pattern and start makin' 'em yourself).
When I design Mexican loop holster, (like Ringo's), I generally punch holes for the slots in the skirt and cut out a section for a wider slot to run the pouch of the holster through.  The original maker of the Ringo rig just cut slots in the skirt as shown in the photo.

You will notice, I have marked out where the 7/16" nickel spots will be attached to the loops of the skirt.
I use a freehand stitching groover and a straight edge to make the decorative gouges in the loops of the skirt.
I have found it is easier to use an edger on these tight slots, if I stick my straight edge into the slot.  This keeps the #2 edger from marking up the leather, and allows me to get tighter into the ends of the slot.
I've used an adjustable stitch groover to cut in my stitching groove 1/8" from the edge of the holster.  I have also used the adjustable stitch groover to cut in the decorative groove on the face of the holster.

Before the decorative grooves are cut, the corner flower imprints, made with the Craftools D617, should be made.  The D617 isn't the exact stamp used on the original, but it is the closest thing I've found.
The Craftools D439 is used for the edge stamping within the decorative gouges.  In the pattern, I show you where the top imprints were made.  The original maker wasn't too concerned about placement, and I have tried to replicate the image.

You may be able to see one, larger, imprint that looks fudged.  That imprint will be under a loop in the skirt.  I have tried to even out some of the other imprints and hide the difference under the loop.  This wasn't done on the original, it is just one of my little idiosyncrasies.
Because the slots in the skirt are so close to the edge, (when I design a holster, I never get closer than 3/4" to the edge of the skirt), it is more important than ever to pre-form the loops and the skirt while it is still damp from the stamping and folding phase of construction.

Care should be taken to form the loops and insure the edge of the skirt remains straight and without waves.
After the holster has been folded and formed, it should be allowed to dry to retain its new shape.